By Anna Robertson Ham
I remember when I first dined at Sperry’s Restaurant over twenty years ago, at the Belle Meade location, which opened in 1974. The Franklin location opened in 2006 and, since then, has been a staple among my family for holidays, birthdays, anniversaries and more. It is simply a place where you never have to second guess the food quality, the service or the experience. The atmosphere is another notable part of both restaurants – with their Old English warmth of rich wood, stained glass, nods to the horse heritage and fireplaces. It is a place that celebrates sophisticated, old south elegance.I had a tasting recently at Sperry’s Restaurant in the Cool Springs area of Franklin, as well as a conversation with owner Al Thomas and Director of Operations Bob Tappan, and learned more about the history of this distinguished dining establishment. The first location, in Belle Meade, was originally Al’s mother's garden store that opened in the late 1950s. It became The Brass Scales in 1970, a restaurant opened by Al’s father and a couple of partners. “The design of the restaurant was inspired by my father’s love of English Tudor design as well as from visits to Steak and Ale, known as the Jolly Ox, here in Tennessee. After a partnership break-up, the restaurant was reopened in 1974 as Sperry’s, named after my great-great grandfather Burton W. Sperry.”
Al began working at Sperry’s at the age of fourteen and continued to make his way up through the ranks of the family business. He purchased Sperry’s from his parents in 2000 and it has since evolved over the years from a simple steakhouse to a warm-English steakhouse. “My parents were original ‘foodies’ and when they weren’t preparing interesting and unusual recipes from their many cookbooks at their home, they were traveling the world looking for additional inspiration,” Al says. “The menu continued to evolve after my many years of varied restaurant experiences at Houston’s and L&N Seafood Grill, after graduating from Denver University School of Hotel Restaurant Management. Sperry’s position in the market as a leader in consistency and quality was cemented with the addition of Bob Tappan as Culinary Director and now current Director of Operations for both Sperry’s and Sam’s concepts. Bob upgraded all of Sperry’s culinary policies and procedures to what they are today. Every aspect of the menu from procurement to production and final plating was placed under a microscope and adjusted if needed to insure the most consistent high-quality product possible.”
During the tasting, I had the opportunity to learn more from Bob about the restaurant’s quality, philosophy and approach. Bob explained that Sperry’s concentrates on offering only the freshest ingredients, nothing pre-cut for produce, seafood or meat, and they fabricate all cuts of beef with their in-house butchers. Having tried several entrees over the years, I was still surprised at my lack of exploration of the menu! It is one of those places where I have established my favorite go-to options, so this opportunity was truly a delight to sample other dishes I have not ordered or tasted yet.
First, I tried the Seared Tuna Stack appetizer with ahi tuna, mango, jicama, avocado and wonton crisps. If you are fan of textures and mingling of flavors, then this is a refreshing appetizer. It is also beautifully presented with vibrant colors from its fresh ingredients. It is a great sharable appetizer.
Next, I tried the Grilled Lamb Chops appetizer served with finely cut sweet potato fries. The dish is prepared to be easily eaten by hand, with lollipop lamb chops and a saffron aioli for dipping. This dish is hearty and can be a meal on its own as well… In case you don’t feel like sharing.
The first entrée was the Grilled Swordfish Oscar, which is a special menu addition being offered this summer and is served with king crab, asparagus and hollandaise. The cut of swordfish was generous and beautifully presented. The freshness of the cut of fish would also having you second guessing that you were nowhere near the coast.
Next up, a favorite of mine and my brother’s, the Filet and Lobster Tail. This is exactly why Sperry’s is so respected and loved – the steak. The six-ounce, bacon-wrapped filet mignon was prepared with their in-house seasoning, grilled to perfection and paired with the lobster tail and butter. This dish boasts of the old-school simplicity of surf and turf, yet only offers the very best, high-end cuts of meat.
For dessert, we had a Sperry’s classic – the Sticky Toffee Pudding, served with a grand mariner spiked crème fraiche and warm toffee sauce. I have never had this dessert and, I can now say, it is one of the most delicious desserts I have ever tried. You know those moments when you take a bite of something so delectable, that you close your eyes and sigh? Well, this dessert is that moment. Sticky Toffee Pudding was discovered by Al and his wife while on holiday in London. With the help of Al’s mom, they then perfected the recipe into the unique way that Sperry’s offers on the menu.
We couldn’t wrap up the tasting without a signature cocktail. The Sperry’s Old Fashion, which is mixed with Old Forrester Bourbon, smoked citrus syrup, bitters and garnished with an orange slice and cocktail cherry. I am a bourbon gal, so this is a drink I have ordered before and enjoyed. You cannot go wrong with a classic, especially when you have a skilled bartender that takes pride in their craft. If you have ever encountered a blunder of a bourbon drink before, then go order this classic at Sperry’s and let them show you how it’s supposed to be done.
If you are seeking the perfect place to celebrate special occasions, or to simply guarantee a meal and experience that devotes attention to detail and service, then you must visit Sperry’s Restaurant. The owner knows that when it comes to what they have offered since its inception, the answer is simple: “We haven’t tried to reinvent the wheel. Our primary goal is for our guests to return year after year and always know what to expect. We know that we have reached this goal by the ever-increasing number of returning guests including many third and fourth generation guests that continue to enjoy our unique atmosphere and consistent food and service,” Al says. “Many of our loyal patrons children and children’s children visit Sperry’s for all of their special occasions. It is our dedicated staff that has created the welcoming atmosphere and level of quality food and service that keeps our guests coming back. For that, we are truly grateful!”
Visit Sperry’s Restaurant at their Franklin or Belle Meade location, as well as stop in their Cafe Sperry’s, a coffee shop offering pastries and snacks. Learn more about the eateries, their offerings and make reservations at sperrys.com.
